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車輛與動(dòng)力工程學(xué)院畢業(yè)設(shè)計(jì)說明書
How Clucthes Work
If you drive a manual transmission car, you may be surprised to find out that it has more than one clutch. And it turns out that folks with automatic transmission cars have clutches, too. In fact, there are clutches in many things you probably see or use every day: Many cordless drills have a clutch, chain saws have a centrifugal clutch and even some yo-yos have a clutch.
Clutch Image Gallery
Diagram of car showing clutch location. See more clutch images.
In this article, you'll learn why you need a clutch, how the clutch in your car works and find out some interesting, and perhaps surprising, places where clutches can be found.
Clutches are useful in devices that have two rotating shafts. In these devices, one of the shafts is typically driven by a motor or pulley, and the other shaft drives another device. In a drill, for instance, one shaft is driven by a motor and the other drives a drill chuck. The clutch connects the two shafts so that they can either be locked together and spin at the same speed, or be decoupled and spin at different speeds.
In a car, you need a clutch because the engine spins all the time, but the car's wheels do not. In order for a car to stop without killing the engine, the wheels need to be disconnected from the engine somehow.
The clutch allows us to smoothly engage a spinning engine to a non-spinning transmission by controlling the slippage between them.
To understand how a clutch works, it helps to know a little bit about friction, which is a measure of how hard it is to slide one object over another. Friction is caused by the peaks and valleys that are part of every surface -- even very smooth surfaces still have microscopic peaks and valleys. The larger these peaks and valleys are, the harder it is to slide the object. You can learn more about friction in How Brakes Work.
A clutch works because of friction between a clutch plate and a flywheel. We'll look at how these parts work together in the next section.
Fly Wheels, Clutch Plates and Friction
In a car's clutch, a flywheel connects to the engine, and a clutch plate connects to the transmission. You can see what this looks like in the figure below.
When your foot is off the pedal, the springs push the pressure plate against the clutch disc, which in turn presses against the flywheel. This locks the engine to the transmission input shaft, causing them to spin at the same speed.
Photo courtesy Carolina Mustang
Pressure plate
The amount of force the clutch can hold depends on the friction between the clutch plate and the flywheel, and how much force the spring puts on the pressure plate. The friction force in the clutch works just like the blocks described in the friction section of How Brakes Work, except that the spring presses on the clutch plate instead of weight pressing the block into the ground.
When the clutch pedal is pressed, a cable or hydraulic piston pushes on the release fork, which presses the throw-out bearing against the middle of the diaphragm spring. As the middle of the diaphragm spring is pushed in, a series of pins near the outside of the spring causes the spring to pull the pressure plate away from the clutch disc .This releases the clutch from the spinning engine.
Photo courtesy Carolina Mustang
Clutch plate
Note the springs in the clutch plate. These springs help to isolate the transmission from the shock of the clutch engaging.
This design usually works pretty well, but it does have a few drawbacks. We'll look at common clutch problems and other uses for clutches in the following sections.
Common Problems
From the 1950s to the 1970s, you could count on getting between 50,000 and 70,000 miles from your car's clutch. Clutches can now last for more than 80,000 miles if you use them gently and maintain them well. If not cared for, clutches can start to break down at 35,000 miles. Trucks that are consistently overloaded or that frequently tow heavy loads can also have problems with relatively new clutches.
The most common problem with clutches is that the friction material on the disc wears out. The friction material on a clutch disc is very similar to the friction material on the pads of a disc brake or the shoes of a drum brake -- after a while, it wears away. When most or all of the friction material is gone, the clutch will start to slip, and eventually it won't transmit any power from the engine to the wheels.
The clutch only wears while the clutch disc and the flywheel are spinning at different speeds. When they are locked together, the friction material is held tightly against the flywheel, and they spin in sync. It's only when the clutch disc is slipping against the flywheel that wearing occurs. So, if you are the type of driver who slips the clutch a lot, you'll wear out your clutch a lot faster.
Sometimes the problem is not with slipping, but with sticking. If your clutch won't release properly, it will continue to turn the input shaft. This can cause grinding, or completely prevent your car from going into gear. Some common reasons a clutch may stick are:
· Broken or stretched clutch cable - The cable needs the right amount of tension to push and pull effectively.
· Leaky or defective slave and/or master clutch cylinders - Leaks keep the cylinders from building the necessary amount of pressure.
· Air in the hydraulic line - Air affects the hydraulics by taking up space the fluid needs to build pressure.
· Misadjusted linkage - When your foot hits the pedal, the linkage transmits the wrong amount of force.
· Mismatched clutch components - Not all aftermarket parts work with your clutch.
A "hard" clutch is also a common problem. All clutches require some amount of force to depress fully. If you have to press hard on the pedal, there may be something wrong. Sticking or binding in the pedal linkage, cable, cross shaft, or pivot ball are common causes. Sometimes a blockage or worn seals in the hydraulic system can also cause a hard clutch.
Another problem associated with clutches is a worn throw-out bearing, sometimes called a clutch release bearing. This bearing applies force to the fingers of the spinning pressure plate to release the clutch. If you hear a rumbling sound when the clutch engages, you might have a problem with the throw-out.
Clutch Diagnostic Test
If you find that your clutch has failed, here is an at-home diagnostic test that anyone can perform:
1. Start your car, set the parking break, and put the car in neutral.
2. With your car idling, listen for a growling noise without pushing the clutch in. If you hear something, it's most likely a problem with the transmission. If you don't hear a noise, proceed to step three.
3. With the car still in neutral, begin to push the clutch and listen for noise. If you hear a chirping noise as you press, it's most likely the clutch release, or throw-out bearing. If you don't hear a noise, proceed to step four.
4. Push the clutch all the way to the floor. If you hear a squealing noise, it's probably the pilot bearing or bushing.
If you don't hear any noise during these four steps, then your problem is probably not the clutch. If you hear the noise at idle and it goes away when the clutch is pressed, it may be an issue in the contact point between the fork and pivot ball.
Types of Clutches
There are many other types of clutches in your car and in your garage.An automatic transmission contains several clutches. These clutches engage and disengage various sets of planetary gears. Each clutch is put into motion using pressurized hydraulic fluid. When the pressure drops, springs cause the clutch to release. Evenly spaced ridges, called splines, line the inside and outside of the clutch to lock into the gears and the clutch housing. You can read more about these clutches in How Automatic Transmissions Work.
An air conditioning compressor in a car has an electromagnetic clutch. This allows the compressor to shut off even while the engine is running. When current flows through a magnetic coil in the clutch, the clutch engages. As soon as the current stops, such as when you turn off your air conditioning, the clutch disengages.
Most cars that have an engine-driven cooling fan have a thermostatically controlled viscous clutch -- the temperature of the fluid actually drives the clutch. This clutch is positioned at the hub of the fan, in the airflow coming through the radiator. This type of clutch is a lot like the viscous coupling sometimes found in all-wheel drive cars. The fluid in the clutch gets thicker as it heats up, causing the fan to spin faster to catch up with the engine rotation. When the car is cold, the fluid in the clutch remains cold and the fan spins slowly, allowing the engine to quickly warm up to its proper operating temperature.
Many cars have limited slip differentials or viscous couplings, both of which use clutches to help increase traction. When your car turns, one wheel spins faster than the other, which makes the car hard to handle. The slip differential makes up for that with the help of its clutch. When one wheel spins faster than the others, the clutch engages to slow it down and match the other three. Driving over puddles of water or patches of ice can also spin your wheels. You can learn more about differentials and viscous couplings in How Differentials Work.
Gas-powered chain saws and weed eaters have centrifugal clutches, so that the chains or strings can stop spinning without you having to turn off the engine. These clutches work automatically through the use of centrifugal force. The input is connected to the engine crankshaft. The output can drive a chain, belt or shaft. As the rotations per minute increase, weighted arms swing out and force the clutch to engage. Centrifugal clutches are also often found in lawn mowers, go-karts, mopeds and mini-bikes. Even some yo-yos are manufactured with centrifugal clutches.
Clutch install
If you’re a racer, you know that the clutch is the vital linkage between the engine and the transmission. If you don’t have it installed or adjusted correctly, you can lose horsepower and wear out the clutch prematurely. To help you get it right, Circle Track magazine installed a clutch in a racing car to show you how it’s done. With some help from Quarter Master Industries, let’s get to it.
The first step in installing our clutch is to attach the 7?-inch button flywheel to the flexplate on the back of the crankshaft and torque it into place.
Next, the clutch assembly is put together. This particular clutch assembly is a 7-?-inch, three-disc pac Pro Series set from Quarter Master. The inside contains three separate clutch discs and their attendant floater discs that are sandwiched together inside the housing and a clutch cover (same as a pressure plate) that is on the front. The three clutch discs are designed with two end discs that go on each side of the assembly with a center disc in the middle. The end discs need to be installed so the splined center extends outward from the middle. The center disc can face either direction.
The assembled clutch is then placed onto the bolts extending from the button flywheel. Before the assembly is bolted in place, the starter ring is also slipped onto the studs.
The end of an input shaft from an old transmission can be cut off and used as an alignment tool. We insert this alignment tool through the clutch assembly into the pilot bearing on the end of the crankshaft and hold it centered while the bolts holding the clutch assembly are torqued down.
With the clutch assembly in place the clearance between the throw-out bearing and the front of the transmission needs to be checked. If there isn’t enough clearance when the bellhousing is bolted on, it will push on the clutch cover and partially release the clutch. To check this clearance, the bellhousing first needs to be bolted in place.
Next, we take a measurement from the outside edge of the bellhousing to the throw-out bearing. In order to get an accurate measurement, the throw-out bearing needs to be held in the normal operating position against the clutch cover. Second, a measurement from the front surface of the transmission housing to the outside (front) of the bearing retainer is taken. The bellhousing-to-throw-out-bearing measurement needs to be greater than the retainer on the front of the transmission. If it isn’t, then the retainer will push on the throw-out bearing, partially releasing the clutch and creating slippage. This results in a horsepower loss.
In our case, the clearance is off by an eighth of an inch. The clearance should be between .063 and .125 inches.
To correct the clearance, we needed to remove three shims (at a sixteenth-of-an-inch each) between the throw-out bearing and the hydraulic release housing. The three-sixteenths inch we gained by removing the shims gave us one sixteenth-of-an-inch clearance.
The bellhousing is then bolted back on the engine and the measurements are retaken to verify the proper clearance.
Now, your new clutch is installed and adjusted with plenty of clearance so there is no chance of slippage. No slippage means no loss of horsepower. Follow the guidelines we stressed here, and you’ll never have problems with your clutch.
Car air conditioning compressor with magnetic clutch
Clutches are valuable and necessary to a number of applications. For more information on clutches and related topics, check out the links on the following page.
The analysis of all type of friction clutches and brakes use the same general procedure. The following step are necessary:
? Assume or determine the distribution of pressure on the frictional surfaces.
? Find a relation between the maximum pressure and the pressure at any point
? Apply the condition of statical equilibrium to find (a) the actuating force, (b) the torque, and (c) the support reactions.
Miscellaneous clutches include several types, such as the positive-contact clutches, overload-release clutches, overrunning clutches, magnetic fluid clutches, and others.
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